The use of clothing has been common on the Iranian plateau since the distant past, and clothing in each period has had its own characteristics. It is possible to distinguish different clothes that women used to cover themselves, and Iranian women used different types of clothing from long ago until now. Over time, each region has turned to a type of clothing to display its ideas.
The history of Iranian people’s clothing is generally part of the history of human civilization and culture, and to know about the clothing in Iran, the culture of the Iranian people should also be examined. It is fair to say that clothes can be seen as representing religious, cultural, and other social meanings. The type of clothing in ancient Iran has always had a special style depending on different conditions.
Studies show that full body coverage in different historical periods was common both for women and men in Iran, which reminds us of the fact that Iranians have never lived in nudity. But it should also be kept in mind that the full and decorated covers for women in Iran were very different from the covering with the black veil and had their own style in each period.
Iranian women’s clothing throughout history always shows generational changes and the spirit of the people, as well as the history of the nation and its culture. The history of their clothing shows that women’s clothes have constantly changed in history, introducing culture to other groups by choosing the right clothes to get them to know their customs.
The history of clothing in Iran also has a deep connection with aesthetics, the love for beauty, and hijab, which means complete covering. Iran is the pinnacle of beauty and elegance; our people carry a deep and rooted culture with a mixture of religion and history. A history that has taken root in the far corners of the world. The closer the relation of culture and art of a land to the beliefs and intellectual foundations of a nation, the deeper its effects on the aesthetic sense of the people of that land.
The manifestations of covering and choosing the type of clothing among Iranian women are so impressive that some intellectuals and historians have introduced Iran as the main source for promoting hijab and full covering in the world. Research findings show that Iranian women have had a complete covering, including a pleated long shirt, ankle-length pants, a cap, and a long cloak over their clothes, since the time of the Medes (who were the first Aryan inhabitants of Iran).
This type of clothing was also common during the rule of different Persian dynasties. During the time of Zoroastrian, before and after that, Iranian women were fully covered. According to historical texts, in all those times, it was common to cover hair and wear long clothes, pants, and headgear, and women moved freely outside the home and worked alongside men.
There is a historical narrative about the culture of veiling among the noble women of Iran, stating that when King Xerxes ordered Queen Vashi to come to a party without a veil so that the audience could see her beauty, she refused and lost the title of “Queen of Iran” for disobedience, with the judge’s verdict.
Changes in Iranian women’s clothing through the ages
As explained, Iranian women’s clothing has varied over different periods, and each period had its own characteristic clothing that women were required to wear. The changes in women’s clothing over time are very distinguishable and clear, and you can always compare one period with another by tracking these changes.
For example, in some periods throughout history, women always used covered and veiled clothes, while in others they wore free clothes. During the Pahlavi period, Iranian women wore open and free clothes. They were comfortable, usually wore clothes with a hat, and their clothing was basically long, but during the period of the Islamic Republic, this clothing has completely changed, and Iranian women must leave the house with full clothing, i.e., mantles, pants, headgear, and chadors.
It goes without saying that the clothing of Iranian women has undergone many changes over time. Now you can see many ethnic groups in Iran, each of which has chosen some clothing for women according to their beliefs and customs. With the help of these covers, each group can be distinguished separately. These dresses are different from each other in terms of color, design, model, etc. and are attractive to the viewer. The many and extensive changes in the clothing of Iranian women over time have caused all these changes to be accurately recorded and displayed.
When talking about the history of Iran, we should pay attention to whether it is the history of the nations and peoples who have lived within the political borders of today’s Iran since the beginning of history or the history of the nations and peoples who identify themselves as Iranian and have lived in the geography that includes today’s Iran and the lands that historically were a part of Greater Iran (Iranshahr).
According to some research, the history of Iran begins with the arrival of the Aryans, from whom the name Iran is also derived, to the Iranian plateau. But this does not mean that the plateau of Iran was empty of inhabitants or civilization before the arrival of the Aryans. Before the arrival of the Aryans to the plateau of Iran, very ancient civilizations had flourished and withered in this place, and some were still flourishing. And I have decided to examine this topic for readers before the arrival of Aryans in Iran.
The history of Iran is basically divided into two general parts: the history of Iran before Islam and the history of Iran after Islam, which are also divided into smaller parts.
The history of Iran before Islam is divided into three parts:
- Iran before the Aryans
- Migration of Aryans to Iran
- Ancient Persia
In this issue of the quarterly, we examine the clothing of Iranian women before the arrival of the Aryans.
The history and coverage of Iranians before the arrival of the Aryans
Before the Aryans, various tribes lived in different parts of the Iranian plateau. Big and small tribes with different cultures and traditions according to their climatic region, including the civilizations of the burnt city. The burnt city is the only place in Iran where about seven hundred to eight hundred kinds of fabrics, fine and rough, and linen, have been found, and this is due to the climatic conditions of the burnt city, which have been able to keep the fabrics sound throughout thousands of years.
During the excavations carried out in this city, several samples of clothes were discovered on metal, stone, and clay statuettes. For example, a bronze statue was found that depicted a woman with a pot on her head and apparently carrying water. This lady has a long one-piece dress that is almost down to the knee and above the ankle.
The other is a small stone statue that depicts another type of dress used in the eastern regions of Iran, such as Khorasan, which may be like the dresses Indian women wear. This woman has a shawl on one shoulder that starts from the front of her body and falls on the back of her shoulder. Another type of women’s clothing from Burnt City, which was discovered in numerous excavations, is a long dress that is embroidered with sequins up to the knee.
An example showing women’s clothing in the burnt city
Elam civilization (in the north of Khuzestan province)
Undoubtedly, the greatest civilization in the history of Iran was the state of Elam, whose territory was in the southwest of Iran and corresponded to Khuzestan province. The capital of Elam is the city of Shush, and relics related to them have been found in this city. Apparently, different parts of Elam had separate governments, and each had its own king. These four regions were Avan, Anshan, Simesh, and Shush. The state of Elam was often at war with the more developed states of Mesopotamia, i.e., the Sumerians, Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians. This government became one of the biggest regional forces in Iran’s history.
Since the emergence of Iranian emperors (550 BC), Elam has been one of Iran’s tributary provinces. The city of Susa was also a rich and glorious city at this time. The Elamite language was one of the three languages in which the royal texts of Iran were written.
Research findings show that the factors influencing the clothes of Elamite women are social activity, the passing of time and political changes, climatic and geographical conditions, cultural and religious beliefs of the society, social status, ethnicity, and livelihood, among which the most important component influencing women’s clothing is the beliefs that are rooted in the traditions.
Research findings also showed that with the changes in time and technology, clothes and ornaments have undergone changes, and their traditional functions and symbols have been transformed under the influence of the prevailing culture.
An example of women’s clothing in Elam
Jiroft civilization (in Kerman province)
The ancient civilization of Jiroft in Iran has always been full of cultural richness and customs that have been of interest in this ancient land for a long time. Among these customs, we can mention women’s clothing. The old local costumes in Jiroft city are:
The charqad, which was usually bigger than a scarf, was fastened under the neck with a pin.
Handkerchief: A shawl-like cloth that was tied on the charqad as a turban and was only for women.
Lachak (laak): a small hat that was worn by women under the charqad.
Drik: A shoe made of wood whose top was fastened to the foot by four cotton threads.
Papich: A strip of cloth that was wrapped around the pants from the knee down.
Waist shawl: a ribbon-like fabric that was tied around the waist.
Kaow: A big bangle that was worn on one hand.
Bracelet: small beads that were strung on a thread and tied on the hand.
Glesh: rubber shoes that are still made and used.
Maleki: a shoe made of woven thread with a sole made of cloth and a wooden board.
Eku: A rubber shoe that the top of which was made of hair threads.
Felt: Shepherds wore a coat-like garment made of felt, which was their clothing, undercoat, and cover.
Female metal statue from Jiroft civilization
Civilization of the inhabitants of Siyalk Hill (in Kashan city)
The siyalk hills in Kashan are 7000 years old, but it may not be possible to say with certainty that the textile industry also started in the same period. According to the evidence and research, what is certain is the age of textiles in Kashan. When we want to talk with evidence, two thousand and five hundred years ago, we had gold weaving in Iran, and one of its most important production centers was in Kashan. And women in this era used this art a lot to decorate their clothes. Gold weaving was usually used to decorate sleeves, the edges of clothes, and collars.
Among other civilizations formed in Iran before the migration of Aryans to this land, we can mention Urartu civilization (in Azarbaijan province), Tepe Gyan civilization (in Nahavand city), Kasi civilization (in Kermanshah and Lorestan provinces), and Tapur civilization in Tabarstan (located in Mazandaran province), and in all of them, the textile industry has been very important, like the pottery industry, and women have always played a major role in its development and growth. In each period, by using the type of clothing and jewelry they used, they were good and graceful representatives of the culture and traditions of their people.
You can follow the rest of the topic on Iranian women’s clothing throughout history in the next chapters.
Author and compiler: Amir Sharifi
