Combining traditional and indigenous crafts with fashion can be one of the most effective ways to develop a sustainable fashion industry worldwide. Indigenous and ancient arts can be incorporated into modern designs by fashion designers, preserving and promoting the cultural heritage of different indigenous communities and creating opportunities for local and indigenous artists to become entrepreneurs. One of these highly valuable arts that can play a significant role in the global fashion industry is baloch embroidery. Baloch embroidery has been recognized by UNESCO as a highly important cultural heritage for many years and has been introduced as the most distinguished Iranian national costume since 2016. In this article, we will introduce the art of Baloch embroidery and its application in the fashion industry.
The History and Expansion of Baloch Embroidery Art in Iran
Although the origins of embroidery in Iran can be traced back to centuries before Christ, there is no precise evidence of the prevalence and ancient history of Baloch embroidery. However, it can be said that Baloch embroidery, also known as “soochan doozi” among loclas, has a direct connection with silk production. Historical evidence shows that sericulture was common in Balochistan in the past, and the silk trade had a thriving market.
Some sources mention that the art of Baloch embroidery started 100 to 200 years before Islam, and evidence indicates that this sewing technique was prevalent among the Baloch people from the early Islamic period and reached its peak during the Ilkhanid, Timurid, and Safavid periods.
According to some researchers and based on evidence, Baloch embroidery patterns have a particular resemblance to prehistoric rock carvings, and the antiquity of embroidery adds to the attractiveness and credibility of this mysterious art.
The land of Balochistan stretches between the countries of Iran, Pakistan, and Afghanistan, and the people of this region pass on the art of Baloch embroidery from generation to generation, teaching it to their children. This art is prevalent among all women and even children of this community because every Baloch girl, from childhood, must learn the art of embroidery in addition to various household chores. Sewing a set of embroidered women’s clothing (zi and gopatan) is considered one of the ancient traditions and teachings of Baloch life.
Until the 1950s, many people in Balochistan were involved in silk production and produced the necessary thread for their embroidery. However, silk production is now absent in this region, and women usually use Pakistani cotton thread for their embroidery.
In his 1971 book “Ja-ye Pa-ye Eskandar,” Islam Kazemieh writes about Baloch embroidery as follows:
“Recently, Baloch women’s flower embroidery has become very popular in Tehran. Fashionable women imitate it and pay a high price for a hand-embroidered shirt or tablecloth called ‘Balochi embroidery.’ The most tasteful embroiderers are residents of villages such as Qasemabad, Gupch, and Espakeh. Orders come from Tehran, and their amazing native art with its colors and designs amazes everyone.”
However, the peak period of fame and popularity of Baloch embroidery in the fashion industry can be considered the 1940s and 1950s. Before the beginning of the 2500th anniversary celebrations, “Mahmonir Jahanbani”, who was considered close to the royal family and was familiar with the art of Balochi needlework, introduced Farah Diba to this noble Baloch art. After Farah Diba’s visit to Balochistan, various valuable fabrics and threads were sent to Bampur, which was one of the main centers of Baloch embroidery.
Mrs. Jahanbani distributed the fabrics and threads sent from Tehran among Baloch embroidery masters such as Mrs. Mahtab Norouzi and Mahnaz Jamale-Zahi and their apprentices. The result of these efforts was an extremely exquisite collection prepared for the Pahlavi family and the invited guests of the 2500th anniversary celebrations, called the “Royal Collection.” The collection included several luxurious garments for the royal family as well as ties, cushions, tablecloths, etc., for the guests.
Currently, at the Royal Clothing Museum, six Balochi-embroidered outfits are on display for the public. These outfits were designed by Iranian fashion designer and architect Keyvan Khorasani and Mahmonir Jahanbani. The embroidery work on these garments has been executed by a group of Balochi women.
Part of the contemporary history museum’s collection includes several outfits from the Pahlavi dynasty, including Farah Diba’s dresses. Among these garments, one can observe delicate and exquisite Balochi embroidery, created at the finest Balochi embroidery centers and worn in multiple occasions by the royal family.
The black Balochi embroidered tunic, the Balochi embroidered coat, and the Balochi embroidered pinafore all belong to Farah Pahlavi. These are considered some of the most important and exquisite examples of Balochi embroidery.
By extensively using Balochi embroidery in the royal family, this sophisticated and prestigious art gained recognition worldwide. Since the 1970s, many renowned fashion designers have also incorporated this exquisite and captivating art into their modern designs.
In 2020, one of Farah Pahlavi’s highly embroidered and luxurious garments was auctioned at the “Herman Historica” institute in Munich, Germany, and sold for $40,000. The embroidery work on this garment was done by Mahtab Norozi, a renowned Balochi embroiderer, using blue and golden threads instead of the commonly used colors of that era (black and red).
What type of stitching is used in Balochi embroidery?
The primary feature of Balochi embroidery is embellishing fabric using regular geometric patterns inspired by natural elements. The stitching style varies across different regions of Sistan va Balochestan province, and each region has its own specific name for the stitching style.
In general, there are two common types of stitching among the people of Balochestan known as “Balochi Duzi” and “Khameh Duzi.”
Utilizing Balochi embroidery in fashion
As mentioned at the beginning of the article, incorporating indigenous and traditional arts in fashion is a significant trend—keeping a country’s cultural and national heritage alive while providing entrepreneurship opportunities for local artists. When it comes to Balochi embroidery, besides the aspects mentioned, the beauty and attractiveness of these extraordinary designs should also be highlighted.
Contrary to the past, when embroidery was mostly used to decorate women’s clothing, this exquisite art is now utilized for embellishing jackets, coats, various types of shirts, trousers, shoes, and accessories such as scarves, women’s bags, wallets, shirts, jackets, boots, belts, fabrics, ties, glasses’ covers, keychains, etc.
You can acquire these embroidered accessories and add this authentic and exquisite indigenous art to your style. Balochi embroidery jewelry is also among the popular accessories that have gained popularity in recent years.
How to create a cool and beautiful style with Balochi embroidery?
If you are interested in an artistic or boho style, using cotton shirts with beautiful Balochi embroidery is one of the best ideas for a summer style. These cool shirts with vibrant and beautiful patterns inspired by Balochi geometric designs give you a unique charm. You can pair these extraordinary shirts with cotton scarves and strappy sandals to create cool and attractive summer outfits.
For formal and ceremonial styles, you can opt for jackets that are embroidered in the Balochi style, bringing boundless elegance and smartness to your style.
The scarves that have Baloch needlework embroidery are a very beautiful and attractive choice. As we mentioned, Baloch stitching includes multicolored and two-color designs. If your personal style leans more towards a minimalist style, you can choose items with two-color stitching. If you are interested in the harmony of color diversity and would like to have a colorful style, you can go for intricate and colorful Baloch designs.
Baloch needlework embroidery has the potential to become an important and income-generating industry in the Iranian fashion and clothing industry. By using Baloch needlework embroidery items in your style, both in clothing and accessories, you will contribute to the promotion of this exquisite and authentic art in our country while having an attractive and smart style.
Compiled by the editorial board of Sattin Magazine.
